Scottish Winter Stew

Americans eat oats for breakfast and in the occasional cookie.  Scots eat them for breakfast, too…and for lunch and dinner and everything in between.  They eat them in scones and stews and porridges and even with fish.  And why not?  Not only are oats one of the most nutrient-rich grains on the planet, they have a wonderful habit of transforming watery soups into thick, satisfying stews.  (Steel-cut oats or whole oats, that is — the rolled variety has usually had its outer bran removed, and much of that thickening power lies in the bran.)

Steel-cut oats are pretty easy to find these days; you might even come across gluten-free oats, which have been grown and processed in their own fields and factories rather than being grown and processed alongside wheat.  Given the plenitude and reasonable cost of oats — not to mention their flavor and versatility — we could take some valuable lessons from the Scots!  Besides, cold winter days seem a lot less colder if you have a pot of hot stew simmering on the stove. Roasting the vegetables is optional, but again, why not drive off the chill of winter with some warm, aromatic roasting? Slow-roasted vegetables will also add a deeper, more umami-rich flavor to your stew.

Scottish Winter Stew

4 stalks celery, cut into 2″-long pieces (do not cut down the centers of the stalks as this would make the pieces too small for roasting)*
1 large onion, cut into thick rounds*
4 carrots, cut into 2″-long pieces (only split very wide chunks in half; leave the tips intact)*
1 knob celeriac/celery root, cut into 1″ cubes (optional)*

In a glass pan (or several pans), toss veggies with peanut oil, sea salt, and freshly-cracked pepper. Roast at 375 degrees F for about 30 minutes or until veggies are a golden brown, stirring at 15-minute intervals.

While veggies are roasting, get the soup going:

3 cloves garlic, sliced into thin rounds
8 oz. shiitake or button mushrooms, sliced
1 large tomato, chopped
4 c. chicken broth, preferably from free-range chickens
2 tsp. (combined) of any or all of these spices: thyme, winter savory, sage
Roasted vegetables (see above)
1/2 cup uncooked steel-cut oats

In a large soup pot, sautée garlic in butter or ghee on medium-low heat for about 2 minutes or until garlic is softened and fragrant. Add mushrooms and tomato and continue to cook, stirring often, for about 5 more minutes. Add chicken broth, spices, and roasted vegetables.** Increase heat to high and wait for the soup to barely come to a boil; when it does, notch the heat back down to medium-low and let it simmer for at least 10 minutes.  (This can be your holding point if you’re making the stew ahead of time — just let it quietly simmer for up to an hour.  You may need to add another cup of broth or water to the stew before adding the oats.)

When you’re about 20 minutes away from wanting to serve the stew, add the oats and let it simmer for another 15-20 minutes or until the oats are cooked through to your satisfaction. (I prefer mine to remain a bit toothsome.) Serve immediately.

Enjoy!

* If you’re sautéeing these veggies rather than roasting them, cut them into smaller pieces so that they will cook through when you pan-fry them.

** Also note that you can make use of any roasted veggie for this recipe: leeks, mushrooms, red peppers, corn, green beans…whatever you like and/or happen to have on hand. (A great way to use up leftover roasted veggies!)

Poached Eggs on Millet-and-Celeriac Croquettes

Eggs used to be one of the bad guys–remember the days of Egg Beaters?  Omelettes made with only the egg whites?  For a while, it seemed like anyone foolish enough to eat the yolk was asking for a coronary incident.

More-knowledgeable heads have prevailed, though, and current research indicates that very few of us have cholesterol levels that are susceptible to the cholesterol we eat.  (One reason why the medical establishment focused on cholesterol levels as an inevitable precursor to heart disease was because cholesterol was easily measured. )  While it’s true that we shouldn’t gorge on foods rich in cholesterol–the rule of moderation applies just as much to food as it does to life in general–eggs, with their essential amino acids, complete protein and high levels of choline (important for brain development) shouldn’t be overlooked.  And in sheer culinary terms, an egg may well be the most versatile food on the planet!

For reasons of nutrition and sustainability (and the horrific lives led by battery hens), I’m not a fan of industrial eggs, but I do enjoy preparing organic and/or pastured eggs in a variety of ways.  One of my favorites is to poach them.  As you can see in these pictures, you don’t have to serve poached eggs on toast–any flattish surface will do.  In these cases, I used some leftovers to create an elegant and unusual base:  croquettes (sauteéd patties) made of cooked and mashed celeriac, onion, and millet; and black-bean patties I’d served alongside salad the night before.  (They also contained cooked and mashed carrots, sweet potatoes, onion, garlic, and za’atar spices.)  In both cases, the egg gave the veggies and grains a rich creaminess.

Poaching an egg is a simple three-minute task, but one that requires constant vigilance–in this case, the proverbial pot is a literal one, and it will boil over if you’re not careful.

To poach an egg:

• Prepare your base and have it standing ready to receive the egg.
• Crack an egg into a medium-sized pot of boiling water.
• Immediately turn the heat down a few notches (so that the bubbles are happily swirling instead of furiously roiling) and set a timer for 3 minutes.
• Using a slotted spoon, nudge the egg to make sure it isn’t sticking to the pot.
• Keep an eye on the foam–as the egg cooks, the white will turn the water frothy and foamy.  If this foam spills over onto the stovetop, it will be rather sticky and messy to clean.  The best way to avoid excessive foamage is to continually catch the floating bits with the spoon and use the upside-down lid to catch them and toss them into the sink.
• When the timer goes off, immediately remove the pot from the burner.  Use the slotted spoon to fish out the egg, place it on the base, and stick the still-full pot of water in the sink with a squirt or two of soap in it.  (This will make cleaning the pot later on much easier.)
• Serve the poached egg intact or cut-open.
• Enjoy!

Poached Egg with Black-Bean Patty

Celeriac

Celery root–or celeriac, as it’s sometimes called–is a type of celery cultivated specifically for its root. Though the stalk is edible and tastes a bit like the celery we’re accustomed to, the true appeal of celeriac lies underground. Due to its irregular surface, the knotted, knobbly root can be a bit tricky to peel, but once you do have it peeled and grated/diced, it’s a very versatile vegetable. (The easiest way to peel is to first cut it in half and then use a small knife to trim off the outer surface.) One warning, however: since it will quickly brown when exposed to air, either use the cut root immediately or drop it into a bowl of cold acidulated water.

Raw celeriac tastes like a cross between celery and radish. Its crunchy, light character makes it an intriguing addition to salads; when cooked, it mellows considerably and goes well with grains and other tubers.

To cook, simmer chunks of celeriac for about 10 minutes and then check to see if it has reached your preferred tenderness. Serve with a bit of lemon juice, oil, and fresh herbs…or add it to mashed potatoes and/or cooked whole grains (millet, quinoa, barley, etc.). It can also stand in for potatoes in a potato salad or a baked dish.

Enjoy!