Scapes

You may not know its Latin name, but I bet the allium family is one of your favorite relatives!  Alliums include beloved aromatics like onions, garlic, shallots, leeks, green onions, and chives.  What would a meal be without one of those?  All of the world’s cuisines hold aromatics in high regard.

Lots of allium members grow wild and are typically foraged rather than cultivated.  You might find the wild ones at farmers’ markets…or you might find them in your backyard.  Happily, these pictured scapes grow rampant in mine.  Another common wild allium is ramps, which I’ve seen at farmers’ markets more often than I’ve seen scapes.  (What great names, right?  “Scapes and ramps.”  I’ve been enamored of them ever since I saw them profiled in Fine Cooking when I was a kid; it was quite a thrill to realize they were growing in my backyard!)

These wild alliums are at their peak in late spring and early summer.  In the case of the scapes, you can see that they curl coquettishly.  That elegant curve signals that they’re still tender enough to be lightly sautéed and enjoyed.  As the summer progresses, the stalks harden and straighten, until finally they’re pointing towards the sky.  By that point, they’re just too tough to eat.

If you’re lucky enough to find scapes that are still curling, try using them in your daily cooking: just cut off the upper third of the stem, cut off and discard the head, and then start chopping the stem.  Depending on what stage the scape is in, you’ll probably notice the stalk getting tougher to cut once you’ve gotten about four or five inches down the curve of the stalk.  Discard the part that seems too woody and difficult to cut through.

Very young/tender scapes can be eaten raw; slightly older/tougher ones are best sautéed over low heat with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil for about 5 minutes or until softened and fragrant.  Add them to salads, pilafs, stir-frys, soups…anything you’d like to flavor with a bit of onion.

Enjoy your wild alliums!

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