Spices with Mortar & Pestle
Spices have always made the world go ’round: during the Greco-Roman era, the Incense Route (which stretched from Egypt to India) played host to traders buying and selling spices such as cinnamon, turmeric, and cardamom; during the Middle Ages, the key players in the spice commerce were Arab traders and the Republic of Venice. (Venice functioned as the gateway between the Arab world–where the spices were shipped in from the Far East–and the European world.) As the flow of exotic spices continued, they went from being luxuries to becoming necessities, and the European powers became determined to establish their own trade routes.
Despite the determination of the would-be spice purveyors, the east-to-west chain wasn’t broken until Magellan’s voyage in the first half of the sixteenth century. (Columbus had tried to sail west to find India, but instead of landing in the Far East, the winds led him to America’s shores.) When Europeans finally did find a way to circumvent their competitors’ channels, fierce competition for the precious spices broke out amongst the colonial powers.
Though the spice-trade fervor has cooled since the eighteenth century, spices continue to excite our tastebuds and introduce us to new flavors and cultures. Here is a sampling of my favorites.
Berbere is a spice mix used in Ethopian cooking. It’s primarily added to stews–it makes for a very exotic chili!–but I also like to add it to lamb dishes and hearty vegetarian casseroles. Just one teaspoon per pound of meat/9×13 pan of vegetables/pot of stew can transform a ho-hum meal into a memorable one. Be sure to spoon the individual spices into a clean glass jar (I save my empty spice jars and re-use them) and store it in a cool, dark place.
This makes enough for a small sampling of berbere–it’s very easily doubled.
2 T. paprika
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ginger
1/8 tsp. cardamom
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
1/16 tsp. cloves (also considered to be a “dash”)
1/16 tsp. cinnamon
1/16 tsp. allspice
1/16 tsp. cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp. fenugreek (if you don’t have this and aren’t much of a spice hunter, you can substitute celery salt)
Before using, shake jar to thoroughly mix spices.
Jerk seasoning is another exotic favorite and goes well with everything from chicken and pork to shrimp and firm-fleshed white fish. This Caribbean specialty gets its unique flavor from the preponderance of allspice. (Which is normally only found in desserts within American cuisine.) Due to the inclusion of lime and garlic, this is more of a sauce than a seasoning–use it within 10 days of storing it in the refrigerator.
In a small bowl, mix:
1 T. allspice
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cayenne (or less/more, depending on your taste)
2 T. brown sugar
In a small pan, sauteé over medium heat:
2 T. olive oil
6 cloves garlic, minced
When garlic is fragrant (2-3 minutes), add spice mixture and continue to cook, stirring, until the sugar has melted and the mixture is clumping together. (About 2 more minutes.) Be careful not to let the mixture burn!
Let the mixture cool, then put in a blender and blend with:
1 tsp. white pepper
1 T. thyme
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ginger
1 small onion, minced
1/3 c. lime (or lemon) juice
1/2 c. red wine vinegar
Refrigerate mixture in a tightly-sealed jar for up to 10 days.
Although there are as many kinds of curry powders as there are cooks, I prefer the basic version given in The Joy of Cooking–it’s simple to make and you probably already have the ingredients. (Also, I’m a big fan of turmeric.) Curry powder makes a great instant seasoning for rice pilafs, stir-frys (vegetarian or with lamb or chicken), and marinades like the curried yogurt used to flavor chicken tandoori.
1 T. ginger
1 T. coriander
1/4 tsp. cardamom
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
3 T. turmeric
Place in clean jar and store in a cool, dark place. Shake well before using.
By using these and other spices, you can give your tastebuds a world tour!
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Tags: berbere, curry powder, ethnic spice blends, jerk seasoning
